Stains, assessed honestly and treated properly.

01

Every stain is a chemistry problem

What removes one stain can set another. Tannin stains (wine, coffee, tea), protein stains (blood, dairy, food), oil-based stains (grease, cosmetics) and dye stains (ink, some juices) each respond to different treatment. The fiber matters too — the same red wine behaves differently on nylon carpet than on a wool rug or a linen-blend sofa.

That's why we start by identifying the stain and the material, then treat accordingly — and why a single 'miracle' product off the shelf often makes things worse.

02

Common stains we treat

Red wine and coffee. Cooking grease and tracked-in oils. Ink and marker. Food spills and sauces. Mud and the gray trail of high-traffic soil. Cosmetic and lotion spots. And the long-forgotten stain under the furniture that appears when you rearrange the room.

Pet stains and odors are their own specialty — if that's what you're dealing with, our dedicated pet stain & odor removal page covers it in depth.

03

An honest word on old stains

Fresh stains almost always treat better than old ones. Stains that have heat-set, chemically dyed the fiber, or been treated with the wrong product may lighten significantly without disappearing completely. Bleach spots can't be cleaned away at all — that's color loss, not soil.

We'll tell you which category yours falls into before we treat it, and we treat it with the best realistic outcome in mind.

04

What to do right after a spill

Blot — don't rub — with a clean white cloth, working from the outside of the spill inward. Skip the colored towels and the store-bought foam. Then call us: the sooner a stain is treated properly, the better the odds. For anything beyond a minor spill, a full room clean alongside the treatment usually makes sense.

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